"Hints": " Beans are a productive and easy to grow crop that should be\r\nincluded in even the smallest garden. Beans will grow more\r\nquickly in warm weather, but can be grown during the entire frost\r\nfree part of the year. They have the added benefit of \"fixing\"\r\nnitrogen from the air, and therefore can actually enrich the\r\nsoil. Use a bean \"inoculant\" to insure that the beans will have\r\nthe beneficial bacteria that allows the bean plant to fix\r\nnitrogen. Inoculant can be purchased from most places that sell\r\nbean seeds.\r\n\r\n Beans are prone to a number of diseases, including mosaic\r\nand anthracnose. This will seldom reach the point that the\r\nharvest is seriously reduced. By the time beans show signs of\r\ndisease, it is usually too late to treat them, so the best\r\npractice is to work to prevent the disease from appearing in the\r\nfirst place. Plant good quality, disease free seeds. Avoid\r\nharvesting or working around the bean plants when the foliage is\r\ndamp, as this will spread diseases from leaf to leaf and plant to\r\nplant. Expect disease problems to be most severe during very\r\nhumid or rainy seasons. A good strategy is to plant successive\r\ncrops every few weeks -- when one planting has been harvested and\r\nis succumbing to disease, just pull them up and wait for the next\r\nplanting to mature for a continued harvest. Practice crop\r\nrotation to prevent disease problems -- avoid planting beans (or\r\nany legumes) in the same spot each year.\r\n\r\n The Mexican bean beetle is usually the most serious insect\r\npest encountered with beans. These bugs look something like lady\r\nbugs, to which they are related, but are light yellowish brown\r\nwith black spots. The larva are bright yellow with spiky spines.\r\nWatch for yellow eggs on the underside of leaves and crush them\r\nto keep down the populations of this pest.\r\n\r\n Bush beans need no support and can simply be planted in\r\nrows. Pole beans grow on long vines that do require some\r\nsupport. Use poles (singly or in groups of three tied at the top\r\nto form a tripod) or even a tall growing plant such as corn or\r\nsunflowers to give the vines something to climb on.\r\n\r\n Harvest snap beans while the pods are not fully formed and\r\nthe seeds inside are still small. Dry beans (or \"shelling\"\r\nbeans) should be left to mature completely, then allowed to dry\r\nbefore being separated from the pods.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 2,
"CropName": "Beets",
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 8,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 13,
"InRow": 1,
"BetweenRow": 6,
"Thin": 3,
"Intense": 12,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.5,
"Germ": 8,
"Mature": 55,
"Hints": " Beets are an easy to grow, productive crop that is bothered\r\nby few insects or diseases. Beets are usually planted directly\r\nout in the garden very early in spring. They perform best in\r\ncool weather, sometimes getting tough in the heat of summer.\r\n\r\n For fastest germination, soak the seeds in water for several\r\nhours before planting. The beet \"seed\" is actually a small fruit\r\nthat contains several seeds. This makes it essential to thin the\r\nplants, as a number of plants will often sprout very close\r\ntogether. The thinned plants can sometimes be transplanted\r\nsuccessfully, but it is tempting to harvest the thinnings for the\r\nleaves. The leaves of young beet plants are a mild and delicious\r\nsalad green.\r\n\r\n Leaf miners can sometimes infest beets, leaving whitish\r\ntrails and damaging the leaves. The extent of the problem is\r\nseldom great, and usually only a nuisance if the leaves are to be\r\nharvested. Covering the plants with a floating row cover will\r\nkeep the pests out. Row covers can be left on indefinitely, as\r\nthere is no need for beets to be pollinated.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 3,
"CropName": "Broccoli",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 10,
"TransBA": "B",
"TransWeeks": 5,
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 6,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 12,
"InRow": 7,
"BetweenRow": 16,
"Thin": 21,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 75,
"Hints": " Broccoli is a member of the cabbage family that grows best\r\nin cool weather and with plenty of moisture. Seeds are usually\r\nplanted indoors and transplanted into the garden in early spring.\r\nIt is also a good candidate for fall planting. Exposure to frost\r\nis no problem for broccoli. Because of it's need for moisture\r\nand cool soil, a thick mulch is particularly useful.\r\n\r\n The part of broccoli that is eaten is the flower head, which\r\nmust be harvested before the yellow flowers open. Plants usually\r\nform a large central head first. This may be cut off at the top\r\nand the plants left in the ground. Smaller flower heads will\r\nthen develop that may be harvested later.\r\n\r\n The cabbage looper and imported cabbage worm are the most\r\nfrequently encountered insect pests. These small, pale green\r\ncaterpillars hatch from eggs laid by small white butterflies.\r\nPlants may be sprayed or dusted with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis),\r\na biological control that is harmless to everything but\r\ncaterpillars. Even when small worms do only minor damage to the\r\nplant, they may hide in the harvested head and escape notice\r\nuntil the vegetable is served. Floating row covers may also be\r\nused to prevent the butterflies from laying eggs on the plants,\r\nand this avoids the problem altogether. Other cabbage family\r\ndiseases and pests are best prevented by crop rotation. Avoid\r\nplanting cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower in the same\r\nplace from year to year.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 4,
"CropName": "Brussels Sprouts",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 6,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 0,
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"SpringOutWeeks": 0,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 14,
"InRow": 0,
"BetweenRow": 18,
"Thin": 24,
"Intense": 0,
"IntSqFt": 0,
"Depth": 0.12,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 93,
"Hints": " Brussels Sprouts are a member of the cabbage family that\r\nappreciate cool weather and ample moisture. The \"sprouts\" are\r\nsmall cabbage like buds that form at the base of the large\r\nleaves. Because of the time needed for the plants to mature, it\r\nis difficult to grow the plants to harvestable size in the spring\r\nin many areas. It is often easiest to plant in the spring and\r\nleave the plants until autumn. Exposure to a few frosts is felt\r\nto actually improve the flavor of the sprouts.\r\n\r\n If the plants are allowed to grow until fall, they may be\r\ndirect seeded in the garden in spring. The small seedlings are\r\nrather vulnerable to attack by pests, however, and it may be\r\neasier to start them indoors.\r\n\r\n Avoid planting brussels sprouts where other cabbage family\r\ncrops have been grown the previous year, to prevent some insect\r\nand disease problems. Cabbage loopers are likely to find the\r\nplants anyway, so spray or dust the plants with BT when you first\r\nnotice the small white butterflies prowling your garden. This is\r\na safe biological control that will not harm people, earthworms\r\nor beneficial insects. Small caterpillars are not as likely to\r\nescape notice in the sprouts as they are in broccoli, for\r\nexample, so they are not as serious a problem with brussels\r\nsprouts. If left untreated, however, the plants may be all but\r\ndefoliated by fall, so some attention must be given to the\r\nproblem.\r\n\r\n The sprouts lowest on the plant are those that mature first,\r\nso they should be the first ones that are harvested. Late in the\r\nseason, such as just before the first frosts, the top of the\r\nplant may be twisted off to direct growth into the faster\r\ndevelopment of the sprouts.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 5,
"CropName": "Cabbage",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 7,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 0,
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 6,
"FallWeeks": 0,
"InRow": 3,
"BetweenRow": 24,
"Thin": 14,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 68,
"Hints": " Cabbage is no longer quite as popular a garden crop as it\r\nwas years ago, but it is a productive and relatively easy crop to\r\ngrow, and anyone who appreciates cole slaw or sauerkraut will\r\ndefinitely want to grow a few plants each year.\r\n\r\n Cabbage plants need cool weather, and can be successfully\r\ngrown in either the spring or the fall. True cabbage lovers will\r\nwant to grow some at both ends of the season. In areas with hot,\r\ndry summers, it's best to stick to a fall crop because the plants\r\nwon't reach a harvestable size before the heat sets in.\r\n\r\n Cabbage is a very heavy feeder, so it's best to start by\r\nspreading plenty of composted manure in the cabbage bed. Cabbage\r\nplants can be started from seed either indoors in late winter or\r\nright out in the garden. The young plants grow quickly, but need\r\nto be kept weeded while they are getting established. Cabbage\r\nhas shallow roots, so cultivation should be very shallow. A\r\nthick mulch is a better alternative to hoeing for eliminating\r\nweeds, and will keep the soil cool and moist. Starting cabbage\r\nplants off indoors has the advantage of eliminating the need to\r\nweed the small plants, and allows the vulnerable seedlings to be\r\ngrown in a pest free environment.\r\n\r\n Cabbage can fall prey to a number of insect pests. The\r\ncabbage worms (cabbage looper and imported cabbage worms) are the\r\nmost common. These green caterpillars are the larval stage of\r\nthe small white butterflies that appear in spring. Dusting or\r\nspraying the plants with BT (Bacillus Thuringiensis) is a safe,\r\norganic method for killing this pest. Covering the crop with a\r\nfloating row cover will also prevent the adult butterflies from\r\nlaying their eggs on your cabbages. Row covers will also exclude\r\nthe fly that lays eggs near the base of the plant that hatch into\r\ncabbage root maggots. Pull and examine the roots of stunted\r\nplants to see if the small white maggots are visible among the\r\nroots. Wood ashes, mixed into the soil surface near the plant,\r\nis another commonly suggested remedy for repelling cabbage root\r\nmaggots.\r\n\r\n Cabbage can fall prey to a number of diseases as well, but\r\nif the cabbage crop is effectively rotated to a different area of\r\nthe garden each season, these will usually not present a problem.\r\nRemember that cabbage should not be grown where any related\r\nplants have grown during the past few seasons. These relatives\r\ninclude broccoli, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and brussels sprouts.\r\n\r\n Entire plants may be harvested when he heads reach\r\nsufficient size, or the plants may be left in place and the head\r\ncut off at ground level with a sharp knife. The plant, if it is\r\nstill healthy and vigorously growing, will usually go on to\r\nproduce four smaller heads in the place that had been occupied by\r\nthe single large head.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 6,
"CropName": "Carrots",
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 7,
"InRow": 0,
"BetweenRow": 6,
"Thin": 3,
"Intense": 16,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 18,
"Mature": 65,
"Hints": " Carrots are an easily grown root crop that is rich in\r\nvitamin A. The long tap root makes carrots impractical to\r\ntransplant, so seeds are sown directly where the crop is to be\r\ngrown. Carrot seed can be slow to germinate. Soaking the seed\r\novernight in water will speed up the process somewhat. When wet,\r\nthe seed tends to clump together. Mixing the wet seed with dry\r\nsand will help to space the seed more evenly. Seed can be\r\nplanted either in closely spaced rows or broadcast evenly over a\r\nwide row.\r\n\r\n Even when soaked, carrot seed is slower to germinate than\r\nmost other seeds. It is important to keep the seed bed moist\r\nuntil the seeds can sprout. Some people cover the soil with\r\nburlap or newspaper for the first week and a half to help keep\r\nthe seeds damp. Any covering must be removed when the seedlings\r\nstart to develop. This may mean that weeds will sprout and gain\r\na foothold before the carrots can put up foliage to shade them\r\nout, so it is important to keep the young plants weeded.\r\n\r\n Carrots grow best in loose sandy soil. Soil containing\r\nrocks or other obstructions may cause the roots to be forked or\r\noddly shaped. If you are growing carrots in dense clay soil, it\r\nis best to choose short thick carrot varieties rather than long\r\nthin varieties.\r\n\r\n Carrot rust fly and wireworms are both insect pests that\r\nwill occasionally burrow through carrots, leaving brown trails\r\nand causing sections to rot. The best way to avoid these pests\r\nis to rotate the crop, and avoid planting carrots (or parsley,\r\nwhich is related) in the same place from year to year. Floating\r\nrow covers can be used to eliminate carrot rust flies if crop\r\nrotation alone does not cure the problem.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 7,
"CropName": "Cauliflower",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 8,
"TransBA": "B",
"TransWeeks": 2,
"InRow": 1,
"BetweenRow": 16,
"Thin": 21,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.12,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 60,
"Hints": " Cauliflower is one of the more difficult members of the\r\ncabbage family to grow successfully in the home garden. They\r\nrequire rich soil, plenty of moisture and cool weather. It is\r\nusually best to start the plants indoors under lights, and move\r\nthem out for planting in the cool of spring or autumn.\r\nCauliflower is rich in vitamin C, but does not match broccoli in\r\nnutritional value.\r\n\r\n When the heads begin to enlarge, they should be blanched\r\n(shielded from the sun) by tying the leaves together to cover the\r\nhead or breaking a few upper leaves so that they prevent the head\r\nfrom being exposed to the sun. Watch the developing head\r\ncarefully, checking it every single day, as the quality will\r\ndeteriorate rapidly if it is left unharvested too long. Most\r\nvarieties should be harvested when they are about six inches\r\nacross. There is a Purple Head variety that does not need\r\nblanching and has a taste similar to broccoli. The same pests\r\nand diseases that attack broccoli and other cabbage family\r\nplants, may bother cauliflower.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 8,
"CropName": "Celery",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 10,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 1,
"SpringOutWeeks": 0,
"FallWeeks": 0,
"InRow": 5,
"BetweenRow": 12,
"Thin": 8,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.050000001,
"Germ": 15,
"Mature": 110,
"Hints": " Celery can be a challenge to grow from seed. The seeds are\r\ntiny, they take about two weeks to germinate, and the small\r\nseedlings develop rather slowly. So patience is essential when\r\ngrowing celery. The long growing season, together with the\r\nattention needed by the tiny seedlings, means that celery is best\r\nstarted indoors early in spring or late winter. The tiny seeds\r\nare left on the surface or covered with a pinch of soil. It is\r\nsometimes helpful to cover the seeds with a damp paper towel or\r\nplace the planting container in a plastic bag to help keep the\r\nseed moist.\r\n\r\n Celery plants love damp soil at all times. In fact, they\r\nwill thrive in a mucky area with poor drainage where few other\r\nplants will grow well. If you have such an area, you owe it to\r\nyourself to grow celery. If you don't have such an area\r\navailable, use a thick mulch and keep the soil as moist as\r\npossible.\r\n\r\n Celery plants were traditionally blanched when nearing\r\nmaturity. This is usually done by mounding up soil around them,\r\nwrapping them in paper, or using some other material to keep the\r\nbottom three quarters of the plant shielded from exposure to the\r\nsun. This will yield a tender and more succulent plant (that\r\nmore closely resembles the \"celery hearts\" available at grocery\r\nstores), but also one that is not quite as nutritious. Most\r\nmodern varieties of celery, such as the popular \"golden self-\r\nblanching,\" taste quite good without blanching.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 9,
"CropName": "Chinese Cabbage",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 8,
"TransBA": "B",
"TransWeeks": 2,
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 2,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 12,
"InRow": 3,
"BetweenRow": 12,
"Thin": 9,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 60,
"Hints": " Chinese cabbage, also known as pak choy or bok choy, is an\r\neasy to grow cool weather green. It is related to cabbage, but\r\nnot as closely related as the other popular brassicas: broccoli,\r\ncauliflower, kale, etc. The flavor is somewhat similar to\r\ncabbage, but very much milder. The taste is so mild, in fact,\r\nthat chinese cabbage can easily be used in salads, especially\r\nwhen harvested in cool weather.\r\n\r\n Chinese cabbage can be grown in either the spring or the\r\nfall in cold climates, or over the winter in mild ones. The\r\nheads mature more quickly than regular cabbage, but the taste of\r\nthe leaves can become bitter once the weather heats up. In areas\r\nwhere spring is brief and the heat of summer arrives early, a\r\nfall planting is a better choice.\r\n\r\n Chinese cabbage plants can be started indoors and\r\ntransplanted for an early crop, or sown directly in the garden.\r\nThe young plants are sturdy and fast growing, but need to be\r\ncultivated to eliminate weeds. Once the plants are a few inches\r\nhigh, it is very helpful to place a mulch around them to prevent\r\nweeds and provide the plants with the cool moist conditions they\r\nlike best.\r\n\r\n Chinese cabbage is not as prone to most cabbage family\r\ndiseases as other related crops, but it is still a good idea to\r\nrotate your planting: avoid planting chinese cabbage where other\r\nbrassicas have been grown in the past two or three years.\r\n\r\n Cabbage worms (cabbage loopers or imported cabbage worms)\r\nand flea beetles can be more of a problem with chinese cabbage.\r\nSpraying or dusting with BT (Bacillus Thuringiensis) will help\r\nwith the worms. Covering the plants with floating row cover will\r\nsafely eliminate both pests. Row covers may also extend the\r\nharvest by a few weeks in early winter.\r\n\r\n Individual leaves can be picked once the plants are three or\r\nfour inches high. Entire heads can be harvested any time after\r\nthey have begun to form, and usually reach full size in 60 to 75\r\ndays. Some varieties don't form heads at all. Use chinese\r\ncabbage fresh in salads, as cooked greens, in soups or in stir\r\nfries. It can be used in place of regular cabbage in most\r\nrecipes, but the texture is somewhat more delicate and a shorter\r\ncooking time may be required.\r\n\r\n The first few frosts in fall do not damage chinese cabbage\r\nat all, but you will want to pull most of your plants before the\r\nheavy freezes arrive. They will store for a few weeks in the\r\nrefrigerator. It is said that mature heads will keep for up to\r\ntwo months if packed in straw and buried or placed in a cool\r\ncellar.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 10,
"CropName": "Corn",
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"SpringOutWeeks": 0,
"InRow": 5,
"BetweenRow": 18,
"Thin": 10,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.75,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 100,
"Hints": " Corn is a very popular garden vegetable, and one that should\r\nbe included in all but the smallest of gardens. There are many\r\ntypes to choose from. Sweet corn is favored for fresh eating or\r\nfreezing, field corn (or \"flint corn\") is used dry for grinding\r\ninto corn meal and is also widely grown as an animal feed, and\r\npop corn can be grown for popping or to grind into a fine corn\r\nflour.\r\n\r\n Popular folklore maintains that corn should be planted when\r\n\"oak leaves are as large as a squirrels ear,\" so that they can be\r\n\"knee high by the 4th of July.\" Most varieties of corn will grow\r\nbest if planted just a little later, when the soil has warmed up\r\na bit more. Since a patch of sweet corn may produce more corn\r\nthan a family can eat all at once, you may want to plant smaller\r\npatches in stages, about two weeks apart to extend the harvest.\r\n\r\n The depth that corn seed is planted will vary a bit\r\ndepending on the time of year. Early in the season, when the\r\nsoil is cool and usually more moist, corn should be planted only\r\none and a half inches deep. When the soil has become very warm,\r\nor if the soil is very dry, the seed should be planted two and a\r\nhalf or three inches deep to conserve moisture.\r\n\r\n Corn is a \"monocot\" that is closely related to grass, and is\r\na wind pollinated plant. The pollen produced from the tassels at\r\nthe top of the plant must fall on the silks that grow out of the\r\near in order for the corn kernels to develop properly. To insure\r\nproper pollination, it is important to plant corn in square\r\nblocks rather than in long thin rows. The closer each plant is\r\nto other corn plants, the better the chances of it being properly\r\npollinated. A corn patch should be at least four plants across\r\nin each direction. If planting seed in stages, a few weeks\r\napart, each \"sub-patch\" should also be at least four plants\r\nacross in each direction, as the pollen from the first planting\r\nwill be gone by the time the next group of plants are able to\r\nmake use of it.\r\n\r\n Some modern hybrid sweet corn, particularly the \"super\r\nsweet\" varieties, must be pollinated by the same variety of corn.\r\nIf you are growing this type of corn, it is best to grow only\r\nthat one variety or to locate different varieties at least 25\r\nfeet apart.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 11,
"CropName": "Anise",
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"SpringOutWeeks": 2,
"InRow": 4,
"BetweenRow": 18,
"Thin": 8,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.5,
"Germ": 12,
"Mature": 100,
"Hints": " Anise is an annual herb whose leaves and seeds have a\r\nlicorice flavor. The plants do not tolerate cold weather, and\r\nshould be planted after danger of frost has passed. Anise plants\r\ndevelop a long taproot and are very difficult to transplant.\r\nAnise plants are also bothered by alternating dry and wet\r\nperiods, so it is helpful to mulch them when they are an inch or\r\ntwo high in order to keep soil moisture steady. Because the\r\nplants do not compete well when crowded, a mulch is also helpful\r\nfor keeping weeds down.\r\n The leaves can be harvested at any time for salads or for\r\nuse in cooking. The plants require a long growing season of 100\r\ndays or more to produce a crop of seeds. Once the seeds ripen,\r\nthey will start to fall off the plant and scatter. It is best to\r\ncut the seed heads off when the seeds are starting to turn brown,\r\nand place them in a paper bag to dry. When dry, shake the seeds\r\noff, winnow to remove bits of stem and allow them to dry again\r\nbefore storing them. Store the seed in an airtight jar once it\r\nhas dried.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 12,
"CropName": "Artichoke",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 12,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 0,
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"SpringOutWeeks": 0,
"InRow": 24,
"BetweenRow": 48,
"Thin": 48,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 4,
"Depth": 0.75,
"Germ": 10,
"Mature": 120,
"Hints": " This relative of the thistle is a large perennial plant that\r\nrequires a long growing season. It is best to start seeds\r\nindoors in late winter, and transplant after danger of frost has\r\npassed. Artichokes perform best when grown in rich soil and\r\ngiven plenty of room.\r\n\r\n The large flower buds are harvested just before they begin\r\nto open. These heads usually start to develop a reddish color\r\nwhen they are ready to be cut. Artichokes can be eaten raw, but\r\nare usually steamed for a half hour to 45 minutes, depending on\r\nsize. The petals or \"scales\" will pull off easily when they have\r\ncooked enough. In addition to the artichoke heart (the base of\r\nthe flower) the thickened flesh at the base of the larger scales\r\nmay be scraped off and eaten. The scales get smaller and smaller\r\nthe deeper you get into the center of the head. The small\r\nundeveloped petals are scraped off, leaving the heart.\r\n\r\n Most varieties, such as Green Globe Improved, will not\r\nproduce a crop the first season, and so must be wintered over.\r\nThe plants will tolerate frozen soil if covered by a thick layer\r\nof mulch. Mice may be a problem, tunneling through the mulch to\r\nconsume the plants during the winter. Overwintering this tender\r\nperennial is easier in areas with a mild winter. The flower buds\r\nare usually produced in late spring or early summer the second\r\nyear.\r\n\r\n It may be possible to convince the plant to produce a crop\r\nfirst year, by exposing the young plant to a period of cold\r\nweather. This can be accomplished by putting the plant out in a\r\ncold frame in early spring. This may fool the plant into\r\nthinking that it has survived a winter and that it is time to\r\nreproduce by producing flowers. This is a challenge to actually\r\npull off.\r\n\r\n A new variety called Imperial Star has been introduced\r\nrecently which has been bred to produce a crop the first year.\r\nImperial Star can be grown as an annual, and this makes the\r\nartichoke a much more practical crop in areas with a cold winter.\r\n\r\n If you happen to miss harvesting a blossom or two you will\r\nbe rewarded with an enormous and beautiful flower, but you will\r\nprobably want to pick all you can find of this delicious crop.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 13,
"CropName": "Basil",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 4,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 1,
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"SpringOutWeeks": 1,
"InRow": 2,
"BetweenRow": 18,
"Thin": 5,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 14,
"Mature": 85,
"Hints": " Basil is a annual herb that is one of the most popular for\r\nseasoning food. It is particularly good with tomatoes, but\r\ncompliments a wide variety of foods.\r\n Basil is very sensitive to damage by frost, so plant it when\r\nthe soil has warmed up in spring. Basil is easily transplanted,\r\nso it may also be started indoors for an earlier harvest.\r\n You may start harvesting a few leaves while the plant is\r\nstill small -- two or three inches high. Cutting the leafy tips\r\noff frequently will encourage a bushy plant. To harvest a large\r\namount at once, wait until just before the basil plant flowers\r\nand cut it back to about two inches above the ground. Be sure to\r\nharvest all of your basil before the first frost, or your lush\r\ngreen plant will be transformed into a puddle of black slime.\r\nBasil can be dried for long term storage, or placed in a plastic\r\nbag in the freezer. Another method is to put basil in a blender\r\nwith some water. Pour the liquefied basil into ice cube trays and\r\nfreeze. When frozen, transfer the basil cubes to a plastic bag.\r\nThen just take a cube or two out to use in your cooking.\r\n Sweet basil is one of the most common varieties, but there\r\nare a large number of different flavors to choose from, including\r\nlemon, cinnamon and anise. Purple ruffles and dark opal basil\r\nboth have striking dark purple leaves that make it a good choice\r\nfor a flower garden.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 14,
"CropName": "Borage",
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"SpringOutWeeks": 0,
"InRow": 4,
"BetweenRow": 16,
"Thin": 12,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 80,
"Hints": " Borage is an easy to grow annual herb with a cucumber-like\r\nflavor. The leaves, stems and flowers are all edible. The\r\nsmall, young leaves are the best to use, but all leaves are fuzzy\r\nin texture and this makes it unappealing to some. The leaves can\r\nbe used to season soups and stocks, and then removed like bay\r\nleaves. The stems may be peeled and used like celery. The plant\r\nflowers all summer long, which makes the plant attractive to\r\npeople and beneficial insects alike. Borage usually has blue\r\nflowers, but a white flowered variety is also available.\r\n Borage is easy to grow right out in the garden, just plant\r\nthe seeds after danger of frost has passed. The plant is not\r\nfinicky, but likes rich moist soil the best. Mulch is helpful.\r\nThe abundant flowers produce many seeds, and new plants will\r\nusually appear in the same spot the following year. Be warned:\r\nthe vigorous plants may come up so thickly that you will start to\r\nthink of it as a weed.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 15,
"CropName": "Cucumber",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 2,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 2,
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"SpringOutWeeks": 2,
"InRow": 6,
"BetweenRow": 72,
"Thin": 12,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.5,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 54,
"Hints": " Cucumbers mature quickly enough that the seed can be planted\r\nout in the garden in most areas, but starting seed indoors will\r\ngive you a head start and a bigger harvest. The plants can be\r\ntrained to grow up a trellis to conserve space in a small garden,\r\nand the fruit usually develops straighter when hanging from a\r\ntrellis. If there is plenty of room, you can just let the plants\r\nsprawl like squash as long as the ground is well mulched. The\r\nfruit will probably curl, but they'll be just as tasty.\r\nCucumbers are usually picked very small for making pickles, and\r\nlarger for fresh eating, but are always more tender and with\r\nsmaller seeds if picked when very small. The smaller the better,\r\nand frequent harvesting will encourage the plant to produce more.\r\nMake sure that the fruit do not grow too large and ripe on the\r\nplant. If the fruit ripens, often turning yellow, the plant will\r\nbe convinced that it has accomplished its purpose in life\r\n(producing mature seeds) and will produce no more fruit.\r\n\r\n Cucumber plants are often attacked by the aptly named\r\ncucumber beetle. The beetles just munch a few leaves and do very\r\nlittle damage directly, but they spread a number of diseases,\r\nincluding bacterial wilt and mosaic virus. These diseases will\r\nseriously weaken a plant, especially a young plant. They will\r\ndevastate the harvest and may even kill the plant. Even constant\r\napplications of noxious chemicals are not always effective in\r\neliminating this problem. The best strategy is to isolate the\r\ncucumber plant from these pests during its early stages of\r\ngrowth. Start the seeds indoors, where there are no bugs to\r\nmolest it. When the plant is transplanted into the garden, keep\r\nit closely covered with a floating row cover until the vines are\r\nlong and the blossoms appear. Once the plant has flowers, the\r\ncover must be removed so that the blossoms can be pollinated by\r\nbees. The cucumber beetles will likely attack at this point, but\r\nthe mature plant will be better able to resist the diseases and\r\nwill still produce a good crop. An organic insecticide such as\r\nrotenone or pyrethrum will provide added protection for the\r\nunprotected plant.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 16,
"CropName": "Dill",
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 4,
"InRow": 1,
"BetweenRow": 10,
"Thin": 8,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 14,
"Mature": 70,
"Hints": " Dill is a hardy annual or biennial herb that is versatile\r\nand easy to grow. The leaves are popular in many dishes,\r\nespecially soups and salad dressings, and the seeds are\r\nfrequently used when making pickles. For the health conscious,\r\nfresh dill can be added directly to salads as a fat free and\r\nflavorful alternative to dressings. Dill does not transplant\r\nwell, so it should be planted directly where it is to grow in the\r\nvegetable or herb garden. If seeds are desired from the plant,\r\nit is important to start it in early spring. The delicate plant\r\nis sometimes damaged by strong winds, so a somewhat sheltered\r\nlocation is best. Dill does not compete well with weeds, so it\r\nis important keep it weeded (gently) or place a mulch around it\r\nwhen it is a few inches high. Some varieties of dill are larger\r\nthan others, so it is worth checking the seed packet to see if\r\nspecific spacing instructions are included.\r\n You may begin harvesting a few leaves when the plant is\r\nabout six inches tall. The small yellow flowers that appear on\r\ndill plants will attract some beneficial insects to the garden,\r\nsuch as tiny parasitic wasps that destroy some garden pests (but\r\ndo not harm people). The tiny seeds are easily lost, so it is\r\nbest to cut off the seed heads when the seeds have just started\r\nto ripen, and place them loosely in a paper bag until they dry\r\ncompletely. Store the seeds in a tightly sealed container to\r\nprotect them from moisture.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 17,
"CropName": "Eggplant",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 8,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 2,
"InRow": 6,
"BetweenRow": 18,
"Thin": 12,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.12,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 65,
"Hints": " Eggplants thrive on hot weather and require a long growing\r\nseason. In all but the warmest of climates, this means starting\r\nthe plants indoors and transplanting them out in the garden when\r\nthe weather is warm and frost is a distant memory.\r\n\r\n Eggplants require even moisture, especially when fruit is\r\nmaturing, and compete poorly with weeds. Mulch is extremely\r\nhelpful -- a good thick layer of straw or shredded leaves will\r\nhold in moisture and suppress the growth of weeds. Because of\r\ntheir love for heat, black plastic can also be used successfully.\r\n\r\n Eggplants are also heavy feeders, and will do much better if\r\na generous amount of compost or well rotted manure is worked into\r\nthe soil before planting. Additional fertilizing while the plant\r\nis growing is also very helpful.\r\n\r\n Eggplant foliage is considered a tasty treat by a number of\r\ndifferent insects, including Colorado potato beetles (eggplants\r\nare related to potatoes) and flea beetles. Flea beetles are so\r\ntiny that they may easily escape notice, but they can multiply\r\nrapidly and the tiny pinholes that they make in the leaves add up\r\nto serious injury. These pests can rapidly defoliate a plant.\r\nTheir feeding and the diseases they transmit are particularly\r\ndevastating to young plants. A good strategy is to cover young\r\nplants with a floating row cover as soon as they are transplanted\r\nout in the garden. A week or two after the first flowers appear,\r\nremove the covers so that the blossoms can be pollinated. The\r\nbugs can still do serious harm, so keep an eye on the plants.\r\nPick off any potato beetles or larva you see, and dust with\r\nrotenone or pyrethrum to control flea beetles. Yellow \"sticky\r\ntraps\" can also help to keep the flea beetle population in check.\r\nAs well as potatoes, eggplants are related to peppers and\r\ntomatoes. Avoid planting eggplants where any of these relatives\r\nhave been grown during the past couple of years, and this will\r\nhelp with disease and insect problems.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 18,
"CropName": "Endive",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 4,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 0,
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 4,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 12,
"InRow": 1,
"BetweenRow": 12,
"Thin": 10,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 90,
"Hints": " Endive, also called escarole, is a nutritious salad plant\r\nthat is grown in much the same way that lettuce is grown. Seed\r\nis usually planted in early spring directly in the garden, but it\r\ncan also be started indoors and transplanted into the garden in\r\nearly spring. Mild frosts are not a problem for endive.\r\n\r\n Endive is often grown for a fall crop, rather than being\r\nplanted in spring for an early summer crop. For a fall planting,\r\nthe seed must be started in mid summer, and it may be easier to\r\nstart seed indoors at this time, rather than contend with the hot\r\ndry conditions out in the garden at this time of year. Place the\r\nplant slightly deeper than it grew in the pot when transplanting\r\nit outside. A light mulch will help to provide the cool moist\r\nconditions that the plant appreciates.\r\n\r\n Like lettuce, few diseases or insect pests will be a problem\r\nwith endive. Slugs or snails may do some minor damage to the\r\nleaves, but seldom do much harm. If they are a problem, a light\r\ndusting of diatomaceous earth on the soil around the plant will\r\neffectively (and organically) repel or eliminate them.\r\n\r\n Endive leaves have a somewhat bitter taste, and blanching is\r\noften used to reduce this harshness. There are several ways to\r\ndo this. In all cases, don't start until the plant has reached,\r\nor nearly reached, its full size. The outer leaves may be tied\r\ntightly in place to cover the inner leaves. With this method,\r\nthe outer leaves will be discarded and the inner leaves will be\r\nwhite and sweet tasting. Another technique is to dig up the\r\nentire plant, place it in a pot and move it into a cool dark\r\nbasement. Cover the plant if windows or other light sources will\r\nexpose it to light. Perhaps the easiest method is to just leave\r\nthe plant out in the garden and cover it with an overturned pot.\r\nThe pot (or other container) should be large enough so that it\r\nwill not be touching the leaves. If there are drainage holes,\r\nthey can be taped shut to exclude light.\r\n\r\n After about three weeks of blanching, the plant will be\r\nready for harvest. While blanching does make the leaves much\r\nmilder and sweeter tasting, it will also reduce the nutritional\r\nvalue of the leaves, compared to the dark green, unblanched\r\nleaves. It is worth trying a few plants unblanched to see how\r\nmuch their bitterness bothers you. They may be too strong\r\ntasting to enjoy alone, but a few leaves mixed into a tossed\r\nsalad may add a pleasing contrast to other bland ingredients. If\r\nsalad dressing is used, endive's bitterness may not be\r\nnoticeable. Unblanched endive can also be added to soup and\r\nstews with good results.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 19,
"CropName": "Escarole",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 4,
"TransBA": "A",
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 4,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 12,
"InRow": 1,
"BetweenRow": 12,
"Thin": 10,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 85
},
{
"CopID": 20,
"CropName": "Fennel",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 6,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 0,
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 3,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 17,
"InRow": 3,
"BetweenRow": 20,
"Thin": 10,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.12,
"Germ": 10,
"Mature": 90,
"Hints": " Fennel is an easily grown herb that has many uses for\r\nseasoning foods and medicinally. It is often used in the\r\npreparation of fish, and is thought to make fish easier to\r\ndigest. Fennel tea is used in much of Europe to relieve the\r\ndiscomfort of colicky babies. Fennel has also been used as an\r\ninsect repellant, and is thought to be particularly effective in\r\nrepelling fleas.\r\n Fennel plants are believed to release a chemical that\r\nimpairs the growth of some other plants, so it should not be\r\ngrown very close to beans, tomatoes or cabbage family plants.\r\n Fennel quickly develops a large taproot. It can be started\r\nindoors if it is transplanted very carefully when quite small,\r\nbut it is usually a better idea to plant the seeds directly out\r\nin the garden. Fennel can be planted either in early spring or\r\nin the fall. The plant generally makes it through winter with no\r\ntrouble, so seeds can even be planted in late fall to get the\r\nplant growing very early in spring.\r\n Fennel is an easy plant to grow. It appreciates well\r\ndrained, loose soil and should not be over watered. Average soil\r\npreparation and weeding will produce good results.\r\n All parts on the plant are edible -- the leaves, stems,\r\nseeds and roots. The swollen stems at the base of the plant are\r\nthe part that is most often harvested. Fennel leaves can be\r\nsnipped off for use as a seasoning as soon as they appear on the\r\nplant. Fennel will need about 80 days of active growth for the\r\nstems to reach full size, and a few weeks longer for the seeds to\r\nform. Care must be taken to harvest the seeds when ripe but\r\nbefore they scatter and are lost. Wait until the seeds start to\r\nturn brown, and then cut the seed heads and place them\r\nimmediately in a paper bag that will catch the seeds as they fall\r\noff. The seeds should be allowed to dry thoroughly and stored in\r\nairtight containers. Fennel leaves can also be dried or frozen\r\nfor later use as a seasoning.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 21,
"CropName": "Kale",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 8,
"TransBA": "B",
"TransWeeks": 2,
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 6,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 8,
"InRow": 3,
"BetweenRow": 24,
"Thin": 12,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.5,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 50,
"Hints": " Kale is perhaps the hardiest of all edible greens. It can\r\nbe harvested throughout the winter, as far north as New York\r\nCity. If you can find it under the snow, chances are that kale\r\nwill be alive and ready to eat. Kale also tolerates heat well,\r\nbut is more prone to be attacked by insects in the summer and\r\nmany feel that it develops a sweeter taste after it has been\r\nexposed to a few frosts.\r\n\r\n Kale is a brassica, and is grown much the same as other\r\nmembers of the cabbage family. It should not be planted where\r\nother brassicas have just been growing, to minimize insect and\r\ndisease problems. Kale is a heavy feeder, and grows best in soil\r\nthat has been amended with plenty of compost. It benefits from\r\noccasional side dressing with a high nitrogen organic fertilizer\r\nsuch as manure tea.\r\n\r\n Because of its popularity as a fall and winter green, kale\r\nis most often planted in late summer. (Collards are a closely\r\nrelated plant that are probably a better choice for spring\r\nplanting and summer harvest.) Special care must be given to keep\r\nthe soil moist while the kale seed is germinating. Mulching\r\nbetween rows can help to provide this moisture. Like all\r\nbrassicas, kale has shallow roots. Weeds must be controlled, but\r\ncultivate shallowly so as not to damage the roots. Mulching is\r\nvery useful to reduce the need for cultivation and to keep the\r\ntop few inches of soil cool and moist. The mulch can be brought\r\nup close to the plant after it is established, and this will also\r\nhelp to keep the leaves clean, as it prevents rain from splashing\r\nsoil up onto the plant.\r\n\r\n Flea beetles and cabbage worms can both be a problem with\r\nkale. Covering the plants closely with floating row cover will\r\nprevent these pests from reaching the plants. Once the weather\r\nturns cold, these insects cease to be a problem. In areas with\r\nparticularly cold winters, the row cover will provide a bit of\r\nextra protection from cold, drying winter winds, but kale needs\r\nthis extra help only in the harshest climates.\r\n\r\n Kale can be harvested by picking a few leaves at a time or\r\nby cutting the entire plant off at the base. The leaves can be\r\nused fresh in salads, but they are quite a bit more tough than\r\nother greens such as lettuce and spinach. Kale can be prepared\r\nas a cooked green to eliminate the coarse texture.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 22,
"CropName": "Kohlrabi",
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 6,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 10,
"InRow": 1,
"BetweenRow": 12,
"Thin": 4,
"Intense": 6,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.5,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 50,
"Hints": " Kohlrabi is an odd but easy to grow member of the cabbage\r\nfamily. Unlike other brassicas, it is not the leaves or flower\r\nbuds that are eaten, but the swollen stem that is shaped\r\nsomething like a turnip.\r\n\r\n Kohlrabi seed germinates quickly and is fast growing, so it\r\nis usually planted directly in the garden rather than started\r\nindoors and transplanted. The plants can be grown more closely\r\nthan most other brassicas. Like cabbage, kohlrabi is a heavy\r\nfeeder that grows best in fertile soil that is neutral rather\r\nthan acidic. Working some compost and lime into the bed before\r\nplanting will speed the growth of kohlrabi, and it is the plants\r\nthat have grown quickly and steadily that are most tender and\r\nhave the best flavor.\r\n\r\n Like other brassicas, kohlrabi grows best in cool weather.\r\nIt matures quickly enough that both a spring and a fall crop are\r\neasily grown. A late summer planting, maturing in the cool days\r\nof autumn, may be the best tasting, but a special effort must be\r\nmade to keep the seed cool and moist while germinating if the\r\nweather is hot and dry when it is planted.\r\n\r\n It is important to thin kohlrabi plants to at least four\r\ninches apart, and weeds must be controlled if the stems are to\r\nreach a reasonable size. Kohlrabi roots are rather shallow, so\r\nuse care when cultivating. Once the plants are a few inches\r\nhigh, a mulch can be spread around the plants to control weeds\r\nand to keep the soil cool and moist, but be sure that you don't\r\ncover the stems.\r\n\r\n Kohlrabi can sometimes be bothered by cabbage worms or flea\r\nbeetles. Since the leaves of kohlrabi are generally discarded, a\r\nminor infestation that does only slight damage to the leaves can\r\ngenerally be ignored. Treat more threatening pest outbreaks with\r\nBT (for caterpillars) or floating row covers (for all insect\r\npests). Avoid planting kohlrabi where any other cabbage family\r\ncrops have grown in the past two or three years to prevent the\r\nappearance of disease.\r\n\r\n Anyone who has faced tiny cabbage worms hidden in the tiny\r\ncrevices of broccoli tops will appreciate the simplicity of\r\nharvest and preparation of kohlrabi, since the swollen stem forms\r\na solid mass that no insects can hide in. When the plants are\r\nready for harvest, simply use a serrated knife to cut the plant\r\noff at ground level.\r\n\r\n Kohlrabi should not be peeled, as the skin is generally\r\nconsidered to be the most flavorful part of the plant. Kohlrabi\r\ncan be sliced and eaten raw, added to salads or used in cooking.\r\nIt is a popular addition to soups and stews for those who are\r\nfamiliar with it.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 23,
"CropName": "Leeks",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 10,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 2,
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 6,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 12,
"InRow": 1,
"BetweenRow": 12,
"Thin": 6,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 10,
"Mature": 90,
"Hints": " Leeks are a crop that all gardeners should try -- most will\r\nbe surprised at how easy they are to grow and how delicious they\r\ntaste. Leeks have a mild onion flavor, and in most places can be\r\nharvested straight through the winter (although you may need a\r\npick axe to get them out of the ground at times).\r\n\r\n Leeks cannot be started from sets, as some bulbing onion\r\nvarieties can. Fortunately, leeks are very easy to grow from\r\nseed and aren't bothered much by transplanting. Follow the same\r\nprocedure that is used to start onions. Start the seed indoors\r\nin mid winter. Use a wide flat with one compartment, such as the\r\nplastic tray that mushrooms are sold in (remember to punch a few\r\ndrainage holes in the bottom if you decide to \"recycle\" a\r\nmushroom tray). Scatter the seed thinly and evenly. Keep the\r\ntray under grow lights or in a very bright window. When the\r\ngrass-like leek plants get to be six or seven inches long, use a\r\nscissors to cut them back to one and a half or two inches in\r\nlength (use the part you cut off as you would chives).\r\n\r\n In early spring, as soon as you are able to prepare a spot\r\nout in the garden, gently pull the individual plants apart and\r\nplant them about six inches apart. Leek plants appreciate\r\nfertile soil and plenty of moisture. A mulch is helpful,\r\nespecially in the heat of summer or if conditions are dry.\r\n\r\n Leeks are traditionally blanched to increase the tender\r\nlight green portion of the edible stem, although this is not\r\nentirely necessary and the dark green part is actually more\r\nnutritious. There are different approaches to blanching. One of\r\nthe easiest ways is to plant the leeks in a trench six to eight\r\ninches deep. As the plants grow, gradually break down the sides\r\nof the trench to cover the lower portions of the plant. Mulch\r\ncan also be pulled up close to the plant to blanch them, but the\r\nmulch must be tightly packed enough to exclude light in order to\r\nbe effective in blanching them. A combination of trenching and\r\nmulching is probably your best bet -- some blanching with soil\r\ndoes produce a better leek and the mulch is very helpful for\r\neliminating weeds and providing the cool moist conditions that\r\nleeks like. Pile on an extra thick layer of mulch in early\r\nwinter to delay the freezing of the soil. The plant won't really\r\nnotice, but this will make it easier to rip them out of the\r\nground when the weather gets cold.\r\n\r\n Leeks can be harvested at any time, but you will want to let\r\nthem reach full size unless you've planted quite a few of them.\r\nHarvest can continue all through the winter and into early\r\nspring. The plants will quickly send up a seed stalk their\r\nsecond year, and will not be much good for eating once this\r\nhappens.\r\n\r\n Leeks are sometimes blamed for being \"gritty.\" Dirt can\r\neasily work in between the leaves but a little special attention\r\nwill get rid of it. When you've harvested your leeks, cut the\r\nroots off the bottom and trim the green leafy part off of the\r\ntop. Peel off a layer or two of leaves if they look ragged. Cut\r\nthe remaining leek into long sections, and cut these in half\r\nlengthwise. Rinse the leek thoroughly under running water, first\r\nholding one end and then the other to wash all the leaf surfaces\r\nbriefly. This will quickly and simply get rid of any trapped\r\nsoil that might have resulted in a gritty leek.\r\n\r\n Leeks have a taste all their own, but are very much like a\r\nmild onion. They can be used in place on onions in many recipes.\r\nLeek and potato soup is a classic recipe, and a delicious way to\r\nuse large amounts of both of these garden crops.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 24,
"CropName": "Amaranth",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 8,
"TransBA": "A",
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"InRow": 6,
"BetweenRow": 21,
"Thin": 18,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 12,
"Mature": 60,
"Hints": " Amaranth is a general name given to a large and very diverse\r\ngroup of plants. Some varieties, such as Love Lies Bleeding,\r\nhave been developed as ornamentals. Others have been bred for\r\nuse as a food crop. The young stalks, the leaves and the seeds\r\nare all useful and nutritious.\r\n\r\n Amaranth plants are vigorous, fast growing, and are bothered\r\nby few insect pests or diseases. It is important in some areas\r\nto plant amaranth in neat rows or some recognizable pattern, as\r\nthere are some common weeds that resemble young amaranth plants.\r\nGiven full sun and well drained soil, the plants will achieve a\r\nlarge size quite quickly. The leaves will be harvestable quite\r\nearly, but reach full size in about six to eight weeks. The seed\r\nheads will have formed a few weeks after that.\r\n\r\n The challenge with this crop is not so much the successful\r\ngrowing of it, but the harvesting and utilizing of it. Of the\r\nedible varieties, some are preferred for the use of the leaves\r\nfor greens, and other varieties are primarily grown for the\r\nseeds. The leaves and seeds of all these varieties are equally\r\nedible.\r\n\r\n The leaves, especially the new leaves of young plants, can\r\nbe picked a few at a time and included in salads. Amaranth has a\r\nmild flavor and a lower oxalic acid content than spinach.\r\nAmaranth can also be cooked, as with spinach.\r\n\r\n The seeds of the mature plants do not all mature at once,\r\nand present something of a challenge to capture in time. The\r\nseeds that fall in the garden can come back as bothersome weeds\r\nin future seasons, which is an added incentive to capture as many\r\nof them as possible. When the first seeds are brown and mature\r\n(or when you notice that some seeds have begun to fall off),\r\neither cover the top of the plant tightly with a paper bag or cut\r\nthe plant off and bring the upper portion indoors to hang upside\r\ndown, again with a paper bag tightly covering the seed heads to\r\ncapture the seed as it comes loose from the plant. It is best to\r\ntake the works indoors if rain is expected.\r\n\r\n The effort involved in harvesting the seed is well\r\nworthwhile in terms of nutrition. Amaranth seed is extremely\r\nhigh in protein, and has an amino acid content that complements\r\nwheat or corn. When combined with these other grains, amaranth\r\nseed (or ground amaranth flour) makes a complete protein of the\r\nsame quality as meat, thus it is a particularly useful crop to\r\nvegetarians.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 25,
"CropName": "Chives",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 10,
"TransBA": "B",
"TransWeeks": 2,
"InRow": 3,
"BetweenRow": 10,
"Thin": 6,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 12,
"Mature": 60,
"Hints": " Chives look and taste very much like young onion plants, to\r\nwhich they are closely related. Unlike onions, the plants are\r\nperennial, so they are more commonly planted in an herb garden\r\nthen in the vegetable garden. Chives develop attractive\r\nlavender-blue \"pom-pom\" flowers, so they would be a nice addition\r\nto a flower garden as well.\r\n Chives handle transplanting easily, and may be started\r\nindoors in late winter. Like onion seed, chive seed does not\r\nlast too long, so start off with fresh seed. Chives form a clump\r\nof grass-like blades, rather than growing as individual plants.\r\nMature bunches of chives should be divided every three years or\r\nso, and this is an easy way to get additional plants or to start\r\noff growing chives if you happen to know another gardener who has\r\nsome.\r\n The young, light green blades are the best for cooking. Cut\r\nindividual blades back to about two inches from the ground,\r\nrather than snipping the ends off of the whole plant. Chives do\r\nnot dry well, but can be frozen for year round use. A clump of\r\nchives can also be transferred to a pot and brought indoors for\r\nuse during the winter.\r\n Remember, if you are growing onions or leeks from seed,\r\nthese can be started indoors in January or February and given\r\n\"haircuts\" to promote stockier plants. The cuttings taken from\r\nthese other members of the onion family can be used just like\r\nchives, but they have a milder flavor.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 26,
"CropName": "Coriander",
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"InRow": 1,
"BetweenRow": 15,
"Thin": 8,
"Intense": 6,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.5,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 70,
"Hints": " Coriander is a versatile, mild flavored herb that is quite\r\neasy to grow in the garden. The leaves of plants that have not\r\nyet formed seeds are also used as a seasoning called cilantro.\r\nThe leaves give off a strong odor that is offensive to some but\r\nis used as an ingredient in authentic mexican salsa.\r\n The large seeds are actually small fruits. They are planted\r\nright out in the garden after danger of frost is past. Coriander\r\nplants go to seed quickly, so if you want to use the young leaves\r\nat the time that tomatoes and peppers are ripe, you will need to\r\nplant some more in early or mid summer. The small white flowers\r\nattract bees and other beneficial insects, so it is a nice plant\r\nto have in the middle of your vegetable garden.\r\n The seeds are ready to harvest when they begin to turn\r\nbrown. You may need to cut off the tops of the plants and take\r\nthem indoors to ripen if you want to harvest as many seeds as\r\npossible, but this is usually not necessary. Enough seeds will\r\nfall in the garden to cause a few volunteers to grow the\r\nfollowing year, but these are not numerous enough to make the\r\nplant a bothersome weed. The seed will have a very strong odor\r\nat first, but this will soften and become more lemony when the\r\nseed is thoroughly dry.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 27,
"CropName": "Lavender",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 8,
"TransBA": "A",
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"InRow": 2,
"BetweenRow": 18,
"Thin": 12,
"Intense": 2,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 18,
"Mature": 60,
"Hints": " Lavender is a perennial aromatic herb whose foliage somewhat\r\nresembles rosemary. When mature, it bears sweetly scented purple\r\nflowers. Used widely for medicinal purposes in the past, it is\r\nnow used primarily for its scent. The flowers are harvested for\r\nsachets or the oil is extracted from them for use in soap and\r\nperfumes. Lavender is also thought to repel moths and other\r\ninsects.\r\n Lavender is most often propagated by cuttings or by dividing\r\na large plant. It can be grown from seed, but this takes\r\npatience as the plant grows slowly and will not bear a\r\nsignificant number of flowers for several years. The seeds of\r\nsome strains of lavender do not breed true, so purchasing a plant\r\nfor later propagation will help to insure that you end up with a\r\nsuperior set of plants.\r\n Lavender plants to be started from seed are usually planted\r\nindoors, in order to give adequate protection to the small, slow\r\ngrowing seedlings. It can be planted or transplanted outdoors\r\nafter the last frost. It performs best in somewhat dry, well\r\ndrained soil of average or low fertility. A light mulch might be\r\nhelpful for reducing weeding, but usually isn't necessary for the\r\nadded moisture it provides. A mulch to cover the plant over\r\nwinter is a very good idea, for lavender could easily be killed\r\nby a harsh winter if not protected.\r\n Lavender flowers should be harvested when the plant is in\r\nfull bloom. They should be tied in bunches and dried in a dark,\r\nwarm place. The extraction of the scented oil from the flowers\r\nis a complex process that few home gardeners will want to\r\nattempt, but the dried flowers remain aromatic for quite some\r\ntime and can be used in potpourris or tied in small fabric bags\r\nand placed in drawers or closets.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 28,
"CropName": "Caraway",
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 4,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 4,
"InRow": 3,
"BetweenRow": 10,
"Thin": 6,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 365,
"Hints": " Caraway is best known for the spicy seed used in rye bread,\r\nbut all parts of the plant can be used for seasoning, and have a\r\nmild anise or licorice flavor.\r\n Caraway is usually grown as a biennial, put a crop of seeds\r\ncan be obtained in less than a year if it is planted in the fall\r\nand left to overwinter. The plants put down a long taproot, so\r\nit is best to plant it right out in the garden rather than trying\r\nto transplant it. The plants have fine feathery foliage that\r\nresembles dill. Caraway appreciates steady moisture and competes\r\npoorly with weeds, so a mulch is helpful, but wait until the\r\nplant is a few inches high before trying to mulch it.\r\n Small white flowers appear the second year and are followed\r\nby seeds. The seeds scatter easily as they mature, so it is best\r\nto cut the plants and place them in a paper bag when the first\r\nseeds have turned brown. When dry, the seeds will usually fall\r\nof, but rub them gently and winnow to remove bits of leaf if\r\nnecessary. When the seeds are thoroughly dry and hard, place\r\nthem in a tightly sealed container for storage.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 29,
"CropName": "Chervil",
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 8,
"FallBA": "B",
"FallWeeks": 6,
"InRow": 2,
"BetweenRow": 6,
"Thin": 6,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.1,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 60,
"Hints": " Chervil is an herb with a delicate anisette flavor that\r\ncompliments many foods, and is often used as a seasoning for\r\nfish. It is also tasty added to salads. Chervil grows best in\r\ncool weather, so should be planted in early spring or in late\r\nsummer for a fall crop.\r\n Chervil does not transplant well, so it is best to plant it\r\nright out in the herb or vegetable garden. Chervil seed needs\r\nlight and moisture to germinate, conditions which can be a\r\nchallenge to provide. The best way is to make a shallow furrow\r\nabout an inch deep, and press the seeds into the bottom. Mist or\r\ngently water the seed bed frequently until the seedlings emerge.\r\nOnce the plants are a few inches tall, mulch to provide the cool\r\nmoist soil that the plant appreciates. Plants started in the\r\nfall will usually survive the winter to provide an early spring\r\ncrop. Chervil seeds do not store well, so it is best to start\r\nout with fresh seed each season. The mild flavor does not stand\r\nup well to drying, so this is one herb that is best used fresh\r\nfrom the garden.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 30,
"CropName": "Alpine Strawberries",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 10,
"TransBA": "B",
"TransWeeks": 4,
"SpringOutBA": "B",
"SpringOutWeeks": 4,
"FallWeeks": 0,
"InRow": 2,
"BetweenRow": 12,
"Thin": 8,
"Intense": 2,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.1,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 75,
"Hints": " Alpine strawberries are a wild relative of the popular\r\ngarden fruit. The berries are much smaller than traditional\r\nvarieties, but have an intense flavor that makes them well worth\r\ntrying. They can also be grown from seed by the home gardener\r\nand will produce a crop the first year.\r\n\r\n Unless you are blessed with near weed free soil, you will\r\nfind it easier to plant the seeds indoors and transplant them out\r\ninto the garden a few weeks before the last frost date in the\r\nspring. The tiny seeds should be just pressed into the surface\r\nof the soil or barely covered. The planting container (\"six\r\npacks\" work well) should be misted frequently or placed inside a\r\nplastic bag to keep the surface soil evenly moist until the\r\nplants start growing.\r\n\r\n The needs of alpine strawberries are essentially the same as\r\nregular strawberries: fertile, well drained soil that is slightly\r\nacidic and relatively free of weeds. A mulch is almost essential\r\nfor keeping the soil cool and moist and for preventing weeds from\r\ninvading the planting site. Straw is, of course, the classic\r\nmaterial used for this purpose, but other mulches are just as\r\neffective. Alpine strawberries do not spread by runners, as many\r\nstrawberries do.\r\n\r\n It is good to place them close at hand (near your house or\r\nby a well traveled path) so that the small berries will be\r\nspotted and harvested. Production is low, but the plants will\r\nkeep producing the tiny berries throughout the growing season.\r\nAlpine strawberries can also be planted in containers with good\r\nresults.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 31,
"CropName": "Celeriac",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 10,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 1,
"SpringOutBA": "A",
"SpringOutWeeks": 0,
"InRow": 2,
"BetweenRow": 12,
"Thin": 8,
"Intense": 4,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.1,
"Germ": 14,
"Mature": 10,
"Hints": " Celeriac is a close relative of celery that is grown for its\r\nlarge fleshy root rather than for its stems. The flavor is\r\nmilder than celery, but definitely the same taste. The\r\nconsistency is similar to that of radishes, but not quite as\r\ncrisp. Celeriac can be used in any soup or stuffing recipe that\r\ncalls for celery, and makes a fine addition to salads as well.\r\nIf you like the taste of celery, but are bothered by the\r\nsometimes tough and stringy texture, you have to try celeriac.\r\n\r\n Starting celeriac seed is essentially the same as starting\r\ncelery. The tiny seed is just pressed into the surface of the\r\nsoil or barely covered with soil. It must be kept moist and will\r\nusually germinate in about two weeks. The plants start out very\r\nsmall and grow slowly at first. Getting plants established\r\ndirectly out in the garden is challenging because of the tiny\r\nseed and long growth period. It is difficult to keep the tiny\r\nplants clear of the vigorous weeds that will appear in most\r\ngardens.\r\n\r\n Like celery, celeriac is a heavy feeder and will grow best\r\nin soil that has been generously amended with plenty of compost\r\nor well composted manure. Side dressing periodically during the\r\ngrowing season with an organic fertilizer high in nitrogen is\r\nalso helpful. Celeriac loves wet soil. You cannot water it too\r\nmuch, and a thick layer of mulch will help tremendously in\r\nkeeping soil conditions favorable for celeriac.\r\n\r\n Celeriac can be harvested in late summer or early fall.\r\nGenerally, the longer you leave them in the garden, the larger\r\nthe root will grow, and they seldom get tough or woody when\r\nlarge, as some root crops will. The first few frosts won't\r\nbother the plants any, so the main harvest can wait until after\r\nthe last of the warm weather crops have been picked. They will\r\nkeep for several weeks in a cool cellar or in the refrigerator.\r\nI find that the roots are usually covered with small hairs that\r\nhold a lot of soil, so it is best to rinse them off outside with\r\na hose rather than bringing all that dirt inside.\r\n"
},
{
"CopID": 32,
"CropName": "Garden Huckleberry",
"SpringInBA": "B",
"SpringInWeeks": 8,
"TransBA": "A",
"TransWeeks": 1,
"InRow": 3,
"BetweenRow": 12,
"Thin": 12,
"Intense": 1,
"IntSqFt": 1,
"Depth": 0.25,
"Germ": 7,
"Mature": 65,
"Hints": " Garden Huckleberry is an odd crop that is not found in very\r\nmany seed catalogs, but it is commercially available from a few\r\nsources. Gurneys is one of the few companies that still sell it.\r\nThe plant produces an abundant crop of small (about half inch)\r\ndark purple fruit. The fruit do not taste like much when picked,\r\nas they are not at all sweet. A pleasing berry taste does come\r\nthrough surprising well when it is cooked with plenty of sugar.\r\nIt can be used as a viable substitute for blueberries in pies.\r\nIt is very easy to grow, and that is perhaps the main thing that\r\nit has going for it.\r\n\r\n Garden Huckleberry is an annual and can be treated just like\r\na pepper plant, as far as planting and care. For the best\r\nharvest, start it indoors in late winter, just like peppers.\r\nWhen nighttime frost no longer threatens, harden it off and\r\ntransplant it into the vegetable garden. The plant responds very\r\nwell to mulching, and with mulch suppressing the weeds it\r\nrequires very little care. Basically, it can be ignored until\r\nfrost is expected.\r\n\r\n The garden huckleberry is bothered by few insects or\r\ndiseases. Colorado potato beetles will sometimes nibble a leaf\r\nor a developing fruit, but these insects will prefer to feast on\r\npotatoes or eggplant if there are any available nearby. Watch\r\nout for pests when the plant is just getting established, about\r\nthe first three weeks after transplanting, and don't worry about\r\nbugs after that. To prevent any diseases that might appear,\r\navoid planting garden huckleberry where other solanaceae plants\r\nhave grown during the past few years. These related plants\r\ninclude peppers, tomatoes, eggplant and potatoes.\r\n\r\n It can be harvested any time in the fall before the first\r\nfrost arrives. By this time, the branches will be thickly\r\ncovered with the purple berries that are so deeply colored that\r\nthey look black. The easiest way to deal with the harvest is to\r\ncut up the branches into conveniently sized pieces, bring them to\r\nsome comfortable seat (indoors or out) and pull the berries off\r\nthe stems in a relaxed manner. Like shelling peas, this is a\r\ngood thing to do while listening to music or watching television.\r\nIf you do tackle this job indoors, beware of stray berries for\r\nthey can cause dark purple stains in clothing or upholstery.\r\nDiscard any fruit that is green or incompletely ripened. Green\r\nfruit are mildly poisonous, just like potato leaves or green\r\npotatoes. Since the fruit is not eaten fresh anyway, it is best\r\nto freeze it right away, but the will keep at room temperature\r\nfor a few days without spoiling. Fruit that has frozen and\r\nthawed is actually easier to mash up for cooking. Try garden\r\nhuckleberries as a substitute for other berries in your favorite\r\nrecipes. Just add some extra sugar to make up for the lack of\r\nnatural sugar in the fruit. If you taste the somewhat bitter\r\nfruit unsweetened, you will probably be amazed by how good it\r\ndoes taste once sugar has been added.\r\n"
